In Chef Varin’s kitchen, little goes to waste. Not the ends of chard, the last asparagus stems, or the tops of strawberries. For chef, this is the beginning of new additions to the menu, such as charcuterie. While most of us associate charcuterie with boards full of meats and cheeses, here those plates also brim…

Fall Dessert It may be best known as membrillo—the thick, fruity jelly regularly found on cheese boards—but quince shouldn’t be relegated just to a paste. With quince coming into season and appearing fresh at farmers’ markets, Chef Varin Keokitvon has been turning the traditional on its head. He hasn’t gone so far as to start serving…