June 27, 2018

  As a rule, in Chef Varin Keokitvon’s Heartwood Provisions kitchen inventiveness rules and nothing goes to waste. Even when he could be buying ingredients in bulk, he’d rather DIY. That includes using cream to make his own thick, creamy, tangy crème fraîche from scratch. After he has whipped up a batch—which typically takes three…

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May 30, 2018

The mighty geoduck (goey-duck or güēˌdək) is seriously a Pacific Northwest thing. In fact, the giant mollusk, with its very phallic syphon, is native only to the West Coast. Here, the clam’s shell may grow to nearly eight inches in length; its giant meaty neck has been known to grow in excess of three feet….

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September 5, 2017

In Chef Varin’s kitchen, little goes to waste. Not the ends of chard, the last asparagus stems, or the tops of strawberries. For chef, this is the beginning of new additions to the menu, such as charcuterie. While most of us associate charcuterie with boards full of meats and cheeses, here those plates also brim…

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October 18, 2016

Chef Varin Keokitvon is passionate about mushrooms, and about foraging. Spring may find him hunting the burns of eastern Washington in search of morels, summer casting lines for salmon while scanning the shoreline for hints of porcini, but it’s fall that delivers the true fungal bonanza: more types of mushrooms than might be counted on…

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August 2, 2016

Tomatoes. Sauce never had it so good. Nor, for that matter, did salads or gazpacho. Especially given the beauty that is a fresh-off-the vine heirloom tomato. Take a look at the menu and it may be obvious: Chef Varin Keokitvon is a fan of tomatoes, and especially when it’s an heirloom tomato. What’s the difference?…

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July 5, 2016

Chef Varin Keokitvon has his pots in order. His crab pots, that is, with crabbing season now open in Puget Sound. The funny thing is, Chef can’t even eat crab—he’s allergic to the shellfish. And yet, that doesn’t stop him from crabbing.   Chef Varin: I catch crab for everyone else. I just think it’s…

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